Once you leave Prague, the Czech Republic quiets down beautifully. These are the corners I send friends to when they want to see the real country.
Chapter 02
Kutná Hora & the Sedlec Ossuary
Skip-the-Line Tickets
Sedlec Ossuary (Kostnice)
Entry is by timed slot and it does sell out — especially in summer, book ahead online.
Chapter 03
Adršpach — Sandstone Labyrinth
A dramatic rock town of sandstone towers, narrow gorges and forest trails in the northeast, close to the Polish border. Read the full Adršpach guide for hiking routes, timing and how to get there.
Read the full Adršpach guideChapter 04
Telč — the Pastel Renaissance Square
Telč's UNESCO-listed main square is lined with pastel Renaissance and Baroque townhouses, each with a slightly different gabled facade, reflected in a small pond at one end. It's compact enough to see properly in half a day, making it an easy add-on to a South Moravia route. Come at golden hour when the facades catch the light and the day-trip buses have mostly left.
Chapter 05
Litomyšl — UNESCO Baroque Calm
A quiet East Bohemian town built around a Renaissance chateau with a rare, near-untouched sgraffito facade. Litomyšl is also the birthplace of composer Bedřich Smetana, and hosts a respected opera festival each June. Outside festival season, it's remarkably calm — one of the few UNESCO sites in Czechia where you can hear your own footsteps.

Chapter 06
Třeboň & the Fishpond Country
South Bohemia's fishpond region, centered on the small spa town of Třeboň, has supplied Czech Christmas carp for over 500 years. The surrounding landscape — hundreds of man-made ponds built in the 16th century — is best explored by bike, with quiet cycling paths connecting the ponds and forest between them. Třeboň's own old town, with its Renaissance chateau and preserved walls, is worth an afternoon on its own.

Chapter 07
Kroměříž — Perfect Baroque Gardens
The Archbishop's Chateau and Gardens in Kroměříž are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the Flower Garden in particular — a geometric Baroque masterpiece with a colonnade — rivals anything in Vienna or Salzburg at a fraction of the visitors. The chateau's Assembly Hall was used as a filming location for Amadeus.

Plan ahead
Visit the Flower Garden
The Archbishop's Chateau and Flower Garden are UNESCO-listed and best visited with a timed ticket in peak season.
Chapter 08
Podyjí National Park
One of Czechia's smallest and least-visited national parks, Podyjí follows a dramatic river canyon carved by the Dyje River along the Austrian border. Hiking trails wind through steep forested slopes with lookout points over the river — a genuine wilderness experience less than a 3-hour drive from Vienna or Brno, and almost entirely free of crowds.

Chapter 09
How to Plan a Slow Off-the-Path Trip
These places don't reward rushing — most are best paired two at a time with a night in a local pension, rather than crammed into day trips from Prague. A car gives the most freedom here, since public transport to these smaller towns is infrequent. Budget at least one full unstructured afternoon per stop; the appeal of these places is in slowing down, not checking them off.